We spent 2 glorious days in Kep. Kep is even more French than Kampot. French Colonial that is. Beautiful roads lined with trees. Old mansions that have seen the days of history when the Khmer Rouge were here. Pockmarked, dirty and now desolute empty. New coming from old with an injection of renovaters money. The atmosphere is very relaxed and resort oriented. Not many resorts but lots of backpackers waiting for which ever bus will take them where they wanted to go. It seems Kep is a waystation from the border with Vietnam just down the road. We rode out to another set of caves some 18km from Kep. Very interesting limestone cave with a very special sink hole in the middle. It is used as an elaborate bhuddist temple thingy. Very interetsing. There was a pool that you could swim in if you were brave. I was not that brave.
We have been on Rabbit Island for 2 days now. It is even more relaxed than Kep. It is not the deserted Island of my dreams. A lot of other people have found out about it too. The beach is literally covered in huts, chairs and resteraunts. You can engage in any watersports you wish except blessfully for jet skis. I reckon it would safely compete with any of theThai Islands. Sad really. But at sunset and sunrise the Island comes into its own. The day trippers have gone and the stalwarts take back the beach. It becomes paradise for just those few hours while we remain awake. A swim in the morning on an empty beach filled with tourist expectation is very very pleasant. The water is mirror smooth and this morning it was high tide which led to greater enjoyment in the swimming department. Yesterday we walked right round the Island. It was about 7 km and took about 2-3 hours. The thickness of the surrounding jungle was notable, the various beaches we crossed were interesting and the whole walk exhausting. We really enjoyed our cocktails at sunset.
I have to say that we have consumed a lot of cocktails on this trip. They are cheap as chips and are generally sweet and refreshing. I am now very familiar with the Pina Coladas of this world, I have also tried Mai Tais, and Tecquila sunrises. My favorite on Rabbit Island is the AK47 served at the bar at our place. There are at least 7 "places" that completely line the beach. There will be a reception hut which also serves as a Kitchen. Attached to this in some way will be a bar. Then surrounding this will be an assortment of huts in varoius states of display. Some are bamboo some are wood planks. They all have a varanda with the obigatory hammock and chair. Most have on-suite showers (cold) and toilets (squat style with ladle and bucket of water). If you happen to have brought toilet paper with you it must be placed in a convenient basket left for the purpose. The waste system can't cope with the paper. I am beginning to wonder how the whole eceosystem copes with the hordes that turn up daily for an "Island paradise experience". When I say hordes I mean hordes! They begin arriving at about 9am and there is a constant back and forth of boats chugging between the Kep wharf and the Island beach. Each boat carries up to 20 odd people at a time. At about 3 - 4 pm they start to go back home. By sunset all the day trippers are gone and the beach is taken back by the overnighters and the stalwarts who are regulars that come usually on an annual basis and are very comfortable thank you very much. We, I consider myself a bit of a jack of all trades in this situation, sit around the bar after dinner, consume cocktails and share travelling and life stories. It is ALWAYS convivial and interesting and fun. You learn alot about peoples lives in this way.
It is now the beginning of our forth day here. The tempo remains unchanged. The sun has just got up and the roosters from all over (there are a lot of them) are reminding us that we really should be getting up in that persitent way that roosters have of letting rip right under your window. Last night before we went to our huts Jacqui was quite adament in her critisisms about thier behaviour. I fear for thier lives if they get too close to her hut this morning. It maybe chicken on the menu for lunch!
So another lazy day will pass as I prepare myself for going back into the world. I don't think it will be as easy this time. This lifestyle really agrees with me. I am still committed to looking for ways that will allow me to continue this journey. I have my bike on Don Det to retrieve, I still have yet to get to Banlung and I still want to do some Khmer cooking lessons. There is so much more of Vietnam to check out. Having the bike makes all the difference, the independance of movement makes it possible to see anything anywhere. All possibilities are open, my only barrier is the language and I'm working on that one. It is time to finish this blog. Not so many left to go chaps.
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