When it comes to outright excess and decadence you have to take your hat off to the Nguyen Dynasty of emporers. They did it in spades. Mind you the French and the Americans tried very hard to wipe it out. The Forbidden city is full of ruins blasted to bits by an American army who had suffered a very embarassing situation when Uncle Ho and his men overtook the citadel during Tet in1968 and held it for 3 and 1/2 weeks despite frantic efforts on the part of US forces to take it back. They shelled and napalmed buildings that had stood the test of time and the outrages of the French. Everywhere around me is testament to thier barbarity. Fortunately there is a little left of what would have been a very spectacular city of pavillions, houses and palaces. I am currently sitting in a really gorgeous little timber pavillion set in a delightful pond full of fish and sporting two strucures depicting sacred mountains. It is being used as a coffee shop, I have just had a really ice cup of iced coffee. Perhaps I will have another!
I am following the recommended path described in the Vietnam Lonely Planet so I started with the main gate, the Ngo Mon gate. It is an imposing structure with a number of entrances each used by specific groups. The middle gate is the Emporers, the ones on the sides for his Mandarins and the outside wings for horses elephants and tourists like me. Through the gate and past 2 ponds you come to the Thai Hoa Palace. It is a beautiful structure with huge columns supporting a roof with interesting design. A stroll through the pavillion/palace leads out the back to the Halls of the Mandarins. Two buildings on either side separated by a large courtyard. Each side housed the military and administrative Mandarin offices where they would prepare themselves for the various ceremonies that protocol required. The Can Chanh Palace follows. It is mostly a ruin but the two corridors on either side are impressive for thier colour and the views of ruined houses and lawns beyond. To my right is a large building which turned out to be the Royal Theatre. Intriguing sounds of a performance of traditional music and dance was coming from here. I tried to get into see but the doors were firmly closed. Apparently they have set times for shows and as they say I missed it, bugger.
I walked to the rear of the city past the forbidden Purple City in total ruins. A shame really as it was'nt hurting too many people, it was the emporers personal space and the only ones allowed but him were eunuchs and his concubines. I then wondered over to the Dien Tho residence where I found this delightful cafe. The Dien Tho residence was that of the Queen Mother. She had as much say as he emporer when it came to domestic matters so there are audience halls for petitioners to present thier requests for an audience with the Queen Mum. After coffee I'm off to the Thai To Mieu Temple complex, then back to my trusty little motorcycle and the search for tucker. I think I will try to find some Bun Cha or Bun Xaeo. I have had a really interesting morning. I'll have a little nap this arvo and do some research to check out the tombs tomorrow. Tonight I will eat expensive because last night was an alcoholic bust with young backpackers and you can only do that so many times. Stay tuned campers.
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